Meet Minion Dave

My 16 year old daughter hasn't out grown Disney movies.  She loves Despicable Me, and she really loves the minions, so when I saw this pattern I knew I had to make one for her.

This was a fun little project and a nice break from the garment sewing I've been doing.  From start to finish only took a few hours.

The pattern called for felt scraps for the pieces, but since I don't work in felt I didn't have any.  I didn't want to spend to much so I thought Walmart would be my best bet.  Unfortunately Walmart only had felt in black and brown.  I could of bought a pack of felt squares, but in order to get the colors I needed, I'd have buy two different packages and then what was I going to do with the rest it?  I chose to substitute fleece instead, and bought 1/4 of a yard of black, blue, grey, & white.  There's still enough there to make 3 or 4 minions.  While the fleece worked, I'm not so sure I'd buy fleece from Walmart again, it's very thin and I'm worried about it stretching out of shape.  For the stuffing I cut open 2 pillows that I had made her years ago that she was done with and reused the stuffing.  He's a little lumpy, but she doesn't care, she loves her minion and named him Dave.  Since I have fabric left over she wants me to make another one who she plans on naming Phil.

When my son saw this he put in a request for a pillow in his Minecraft character's likeness.

Butterrick B5504 A wearable muslin

 They don't look to bad.  Actually they fit better than anything I've sewn for myself, however there are a few problems.  They feel 1 size to big.  Looking at the finished measurements I almost think I could go down another size. They feel a little fluffy right around the tummy and while I'm glad that they hide my tummy, I don't think I need quite that much fabric in front.

One common complaint about Connie Crawford patterns is they're very boxy, and this one is no different.  I don't know of anybody, no matter what size, who's waist is as wide as their hips.  I know on drawstring or elastic waists, it needs to be wide to be able to pull the pants up over the hips but still I don't need 8 inches of ease in the waist.   I tried to take out some of that excessive room by doing some hip shaping, but didn't consider how that was going to affect the drawstring casing.  I have some puckering in the casing on the side seams where it didn't want to fold over nicely, but once I have the drawstring tied, it's not so noticeable because the drawstring puckers everything.

Still a little to much room in the waist.  At least 6 inches.

Alterations that worked:  Shortened the crotch depth 3/4 of an inch.  I liked that the pattern already took into account a tilted waist, so the center back was cut higher than the center front and I didn't have to fuss to much with trying to adjust where the waistband fell, but I do think I could take maybe another 1/4" off both front and back.  I shortened them to carpi length.  The original pattern, straight out of the envelop, was almost long enough to be regular pants.


Alterations that didn't work:  Hip shaping, although it helped take out some of the fullness in the waist; it left puckers in the waistband.  If I try going down 1 size I'll leave the hip shaping out because the smaller size will have a smaller waist.

Other alterations I'd like to make:  I really like to make this into a zipper fly with button closure, like jeans.  I might have a better chance doing that with a smaller size.

Bottom line:  I wouldn't be embarrassed to wear them in public, but I think there's still work to do.

The Elroy Route

I am very good at making the simple way more complicated than it needs to be.  I excel at over thinking to the point that I will add 3 or 4 extra steps that weren't needed.  I am a pro at taking the long way around and finishing a task that could've been done in a shorter time period.

In our house we call it, The Elroy Route.  Elroy is my uncle, and has been known for taking very strange routes to get from point A to point B, often getting lost in the process and is to stubborn to ask for help.  I just took The Elroy Route in sewing.

I'm am working on this pair of pants.  It has a drawstring waistband that's incorporated into the pattern piece as extra fabric above the actual waistline and you just fold it over and sew it shut.  Those who sew will know what I'm talking about.

When I made my test pair it was very clear that I needed to drop the waistline because it was to high.  I'm not making old man pants.  Taking what I learned last year about dropping the waistline, I put a piece of elastic around my waist, adjusted the pants where I wanted them to sit, traced around the bottom of the elastic and proceed to cut a new waistline on the pattern.  I was smart enough to factor in the extra fabric for the casing, however because I had just changed the shape of the waistline now I have a strange shaped casing.

I puzzled over what to do next for a while, and finally pulled out the directions to see if I was missing something.  Boy was I, and if I had bothered to read the directions first I would've saved myself a lot of time and trouble.

See that line that says crotch depth adjustment line?  That's there for a reason.  It wasn't the waistline I need to adjust, it was the crotch depth.  All I had to do was slash the pattern along that line and drop the top part down about 2 inches.  This would've kept the waist casing intact and kept the pattern notches in the same place for the matching pieces like the pockets and pocket facing.

So now to fix this I need to go back and retrace the original pattern with the original waistline and drop the crotch depth.  See 3-4 extra steps that weren't needed.  It's a good thing we learn from our mistakes, because this is one I don't want to make again.

B5504 Pants adjustments

Last night I got to thinking about this pair of pants and realized there were other issues that needed to be fixed along with the waistband issues.  I remembered I had these issues last year but couldn't remember what I did to fix them.  So for future reference, here's what needs to be fixed and how.

Here's what I need to do to remove some of the drag wrinkles. I need to do this first because it will affect where the waistband sits.  I had some problems with this last year because every time I adjusted the balance lines, it dropped the crotch.  So I might have to pick between the lesser of the two.  I'd rather have the crotch line where I want it with the drag lines, that no drag lines and a crotch that feels to low.

In this picture you can see what the drag wrinkles look like from the back.  Also as mentioned before I need to do a knock knee adjustment.  Here's what I'll be doing to fix wrinkles around the back of the knee.

I still haven't figured out what to do with the waist yet.  I'm thinking a wider waistband with some hip shaping, and see if I can use the front seams to hide a dart.  I want to remove some of the fullness around the waist before I figure out if it should be a drawstring or a zipper fly.

Connie Crawford B5504 Pattern Review

I've been looking at ready to wear styles similar to this.  I like the style but I was a little reluctant to
use a Connie Crawford pattern.  I tried a Connie Crawford before and didn't like anything about it.  The proportions were terrible.  Too big in the waist and hips, and sharply tapered down to the ankle.  It looked like she was trying to design skinny jeans for someone with very wide hips.  Not a good look.

Knowing this about the last pattern I thought I better make a muslin to see if it was worth it.  Actually they don't look to bad.  I can add a little length and make them into pants or I can shorten them for capris.

It looks like I need to do a knock knee adjustment and figure what to do with the waist.  As you can see I need to remove some of the extra fabric in the front waist and you can't really see it in the back, but there's some that needs to come off there too.  I haven't figured out how to do this and still keep the drawstring casing in tact, or if I should put some darts in put in a zipper fly.  I really want to try and avoid darts if I can.  So I'm kind of stuck at this point.

Sewing Work Pants

I work on a sod farm in the summer and so my work clothes are clothes that I don't mind getting grease, dirt, grass stains, etc. on  Last year I made a pair that got lots of wear and would still have them to wear this summer if they hadn't gotten caught in a piece of equipment and a giant hole ripped in them.  So I decided it was time to make another pair for this summer.  This is the same pattern as last year's but with a few tweeks. The ones I made last year worked really well, but there were somethings I wasn't totally happy with.

The above pics are last year's pants from a patten I drafted myself.  The crotch felt a little low, the legs were uneven (which wasn't noticeable when they were worn long, but when I rolled them up to capri length you could tell they slanted up on the inseam) and the tabs that held the rolled cuffs in place were to long and were constantly getting caught on the shift lever when I rode in the tractor, and I placed the pockets to low (they look to be around knee level).  

Those were the issues I wanted to correct in this pair.  To fix the crotch I took about a 1/2"  off the front waist.  I fixed the crooked inseam by slightly widening the leg and shifting the lower half of the leg toward the inseam by a 1/2".  Instead of buttons, I went with D-ring for the tabs and raised them to slightly above the knee so when I roll the cuffs into capris, the cuff will fall just below the knee and the tabs are just long enough to be pulled though the D-rings about an inch, and because I raised the tabs, I also raised the cargo pockets and used the pockets to secure the side seam tabs.   I'm happy with this pair, although I think they're kind of baggy in the butt (I think I've lost some weight in the hips and backside because I didn't change anything in those areas) and I think I'll go back to buttons for the tabs.  The D-rings are a little hard to fumble around with.

 

 

Next I'm working on this pattern.