Monday, March 9, 2015

Designed my own jeans




I've been thinking about making these jean capris since I started sewing for myself a few years ago, but I didn't know enough about pattern alterations, drafting and fitting to make them possible.  After several years of practice I finally felt ready to give them a go. 

I knew I liked the way my RTW jeans fit, but I was having a hard time finding a similar jean pattern, so I did the next best thing.  I took apart a pair of my RTW and created a pattern from there.

My jeans were a little to tight, so I had to add a little room in the waist and hips and just a smidge to the crotch points, other than that I didn't have to do to much fitting.

I cut the pattern about 4" below the knee and drew the cuffs.  They are folded under and both raw edges of the cuff sewn to the bottom of the denim.  I did the same with the back pockets, where I cut off 2" and added the accent fabric.  I also used the accent fabric in the front pocket bags and inside waistband.

My ultimate goal was to create a pair of pants that looked like RTW, not something made in my basement.  So I used real top stitching thread and my new sewing machine came with an edge stitch foot which helped keep the top stitching nice and even.  This was the first time I've added belt loops and rivets.  With a hammer and nail adding the rivets wasn't that hard.

The only thing I would change next time would be to use a smaller zipper.  I've always used 7" nylon zippers and have always shortened them, but this time wanting to be authentic I went with a metal zipper which can't be shortened without a pliers.

Can't wait for the weather to warm up so I can wear them.