Thursday, March 6, 2014

Breaking the fitting rules


If I sew something for myself and I'm happy with the way it looks and the way it fits, who cares about the rules?  I'm talking about wrinkles and drag lines that come from a not so perfect fit, especially on pants.  The general goal in the sewing world is to have a garment with no wrinkles or drag lines.   Pants are always going to have some wrinkles from the way you're standing, sitting, or moving, and really who stands with their legs apart and butt sticking out, as has been suggested to get rid of the inner thigh wrinkles.  I have full thighs, that's just how I'm built, when I walk I'm going to get some wrinkles in that area.

I also have wide hips, and another rule I'm having trouble following is that pants must hang smoothly from the widest part of the body.  If I followed this rule I'd have very wide legs.  While I don't mind a wide leg jean, I do want some tapering to the ankle.  I'm not talking skinny jean shaping, but I also don't want a 40" opening at the ankle either.  While I was looking through one of my fitting books, I noticed a woman with a body shape similar to mine, who took a pattern that fit her everywhere else but the hips.  She adjusted the pattern to fit her hips, while still maintaining the rest of the pattern.  In her case, the pants come out from the waist to cover her hips and then come back in under the hip to fit the rest of her leg, and it looks ok.

Since I started this fitting journey last winter, I've been looking at pants on other people.  I'm assuming most people are wearing ready to wear, and I have never run into anybody commenting about the wrinkles under the butt, or the drag lines from the hip, or how the pant leg doesn't fall smoothy from the widest part of the body.  Most people don't notice unless it's very poor fitting. 

Looking at ready to wear on other people, made me realize, as long as I like the way it looks when I put it on it's good enough, and I'm the only one who I need to please.  If I follow all the rules, and end up with a garment that I'm not happy with; then what was the point of sewing it?

Edited:  You can't throw all the fitting rules out the window, as evidenced by the last pair of pants I made.  They're not bad, but they're not great either.