Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Fixing the front crotch

Yesterday I spend the afternoon drawing up another pattern to work with, but this time I got smart.  The first two patterns I drew, if for some reason I needed to compare it to the master pattern I couldn't do it very easily because I didn't remember what measurements I used from the master, or they wouldn't line up like they should have or I had made so many changes that it wasn't the same pattern.  While I was drawing up the new one I decided to write the measurements next to each dot so if I needed to match it up with the master again everything would be where it was suppose to be.  Using a grain board, I also marked the high hip, low hip and crotch line in case I needed to make adjustments in those areas.  It's a good thing I did too, because after making my muslin, I had to use the low hip line to adjust the center front.  I had to take out about 1 1/2 inches.  It pulled the front crotch up slightly and just looks better.
Front view after shorting center front
Front view before shorting center front.  See the fabric pooling at the bottom of the zipper
I also used the grain board to draw the hem line, since I was having issues with the inseam hem pulling up and I wasn't sure it was straight in the first place.   Just looking at these photos I do think the inseam is hanging straighter but I won't know for sure until I finish the rest of my adjustments.

Next I'll be working on the back and tapering the legs.  Glenda suggests I add 5/8 of an inch to the back crotch point.  She's mentioned it before but I was being a bonehead and didn't want to.  I think it's time I do what I'm told.  She also mentioned needing more room in the high hip.  Another something I didn't want to do because I'm worried about getting the elephant ear effect that I had in the first pair, but my husband told me just to try it and see.  Glenda's out of the office next week, so I'll have time to do a pair my way and another pair her way and see which one looks better.  I have a feeling I'm going to loose.

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