No wonder it doesn't fit

I've been fighting with this pattern for at least 2 weeks and have come to the conclusion that I just need to start over.  I've measured, remeasured and remeasured again, and decided I made the crotch curve to short and no amount of adding to the crotch points is ever going to make a difference.  Last night I added 2 inches to the back, which brought it back up to my waistline, but it threw off the rest of the waist edge, because I had such a sharp angle from the center back to the side seams.  I know I should have added 2 inches to the front too, but I don't need more room in the front.  I'm going back to my original crotch curve measurements from the first pair of pants.  I need to get the crotch curve figured out before I can even think of making other adjustments.  I found a crotch curve tutorial, and guess that will be my next step if I can't get it to fit right.  So as much as I hate to say it, it's back to the drawing board.

Learning curve

Using what I learned from my first pair of pants, I decided to try another pair with some modification.  My first pair, although wearable, needed some work.  The waist was to big, the hips were to full, the legs to wide, ect.  The second pair I wanted to fix all of that.  So I pulled out my tracing paper and using the correct measurements, drew up another pattern.  I wasn't sure how to go about narrowing the leg, so following the Sure Fit master pattern, I drew seam lines for 13 sizes and sewed the tracing paper together until I got to my desired width.  I'm thinking I could probably go down another inch or so and I found this video to be helpful for future reference, but I have other issues to take care of first. 

I realized from these pics that I have a tilted waist and need to make the front quite a bit shorter than the back.  Which also affects my crotch curve, giving me a very short front curve and a long back curve.  I measured using a crotch-o-meter and found my front is 13" and my back is 22".  Looking at these pants that means I need to raise the center back about an inch, and add a 1/2" to 5/8" to the back crotch point.  Hopefully that will take care of the little wedgie and bring my waistband up over the top of my underwear.  The other issue I'm having and I didn't notice it on the first pair until they were done, is the inseam pulls up.  You can really see it in the back view.  I tried to correct it by putting a wedge in the inseam to lengthen it, but that just made it worse because I had all this extra fabric in the inner thigh.  Turns out I did the opposite of what I should of done.  I need to take a wedge out at the side seam.  Here Glenda shows how to fix this.

This pair fits pretty well in the waist and hips, if I can take care of the back crotch issues I think I getting close to where I want to be.

Bad Romance

Knitting this sweater was like a relationship gone bad from the very beginning. At first it was new and exciting. I couldn’t wait to spend my evenings curled up on the couch, running my fingers though its yarn, but soon it became tedious and boring. I’ll admit to having a wandering eye; and soon I was just going through the motions.

About a month into it, I decided I needed a break. I went on to pursue other interests, while the sweater just sat in a lump behind the couch.

Eventually, I went back to it and tried to make it work, but the sweater just wasn’t cooperating. I first had a feeling that it was over when I realized it wasn’t going to fit, but I wasn’t ready to give up. I thought if I just kept working on it everything would turn out ok.

After talking to some knitting friends, who reassured me it would be ok to call it quits since I really wasn’t happy, I pulled the yarn winder out and started the break up process. Sadly I watched as row by row my sweater disappeared, but my friends were right, I do feel better. I’m able to pursue other interests without the guilt, and my sweater has gone back into several balls of yarn to be used in another project.

Oh, Sweater, I loved the idea of you, but it just wasn’t meant to be.

The Absent Minded Seamstress

So my pants are done, and I'm cleaning up before starting something else, since it looks like a sewing store blew up in my basement.  My sewing area is so small it's sometimes difficult to keep all my work in that one spot, and my supplies gets spread all over the house.  This could be the reason why  I have 3 seam rippers, several marking pencils, two scissors, 3-4 things of unopened elastic strips, I just found the pressing ham I bought a few years ago, ect.   Yesterday I was looking for the open roll of tracing paper because I needed to draft a new pattern peice.  When I couldn't find it I had to open another roll, and then found the missing one today in the dinning room.

I really try to stay organized, but sometimes creativity strikes and I can't be bothered to put things back where they belong.  Before I start another project I'm going to try really hard to get everything put away, so maybe I'll have more room to work and spend less time looking for my supplies.

Lessons learned the hard way

It's a good thing we can learn from our mistakes, because I've learned quite a few things in the last week.

Lesson 1  Photos can be/are deceiving
I had been seeking advice from Glenda by posting my work in progress photos and waiting for her feedback.  A lot of her feedback was helpful, but there were just some things she was seeing in the photos that I wasn't seeing in mirror.  The major one was, she said I had a flat derriere and need to make the adjustment for that. If you see me in real life you'd know I do not have a flat derriere, it protrudes out from my low back quite noticeably.  I'm not saying I have a Kim Kardashian backside, but there's more there than I would like and you don't really see it in the photos.

Lesson 2 Check the width of the fabric before you buy
Because I drafted my own pattern, I wasn't exactly sure how much fabric to buy.  I guesstimated based on how much muslin I used, but didn't take into account the pocket pieces or waistband and was able to get by with 3 1/2 yards.  So to be one the safe side I bought 4 yards of twill thinking I'd have enough, but it wasn't until I started laying the pieces out that I realized I bought 44" wide fabric instead of 58", which meant I had to cut each piece individually and when I got to the last piece I was short on fabric.  So back to the store, where I bought more than I needed in case I made anymore stupid mistakes.  I have enough left over to make myself a pair of shorts.  If only I wore shorts.


Lesson 3 Measure twice, cut once
This lesson doesn't just apply to carpentry.  Even though I thought I took meticulous measurements, I ended up cutting the front pieces about an inch longer than the back pieces.  Wasn't a huge deal, since they were going to be carpris, so I just cut the extra inch off to even them up. '

Lesson 4 Don't wait until end to try it on
I was so excited to finish as I was getting closer to end that I skipped trying them on; figureing I had made all the nessicary adjustments on the muslin.  I had put a dart in the center back seam like Glenda suggested, but once I got the waistband on and then tried them on, that dart pulled the waistband down to far and a good deal of my underwear showed.  If I had put a waistband on the muslin or at least tried them on before sewing the waistband in, I might have caught this problem that before I finished sewing and saved myself the time to rip the waistband out and re-cut another one because I put in on wrong in the first place.

Lesson 5 Double check your measurements
This one is very similar to lesson 3 and as I found out today, after doing the waistband the second time, my husband measured me wrong.  He measured my waist to be 3-4 inches bigger than it really is, so not only is the waist band to big that pants are to big.

Although I had my issues sewing these pants, overall I'd say it was mostly successfull.  I think I can fix the waistband issue with a drawstring on the inside to make them wearable and they are a better fit than anything in my closet and much better than the last pair I tried to sew from a real pattern.  I'm working on a new design and will be sure to make the measurement changes on the new pattern.

Sweater update

I started this sweater in November.  I'm getting closer to finishing and it's beautiful, but now I'm getting worried.  I forgot to take into account how much the cables in the back would pull in; and now I'm worried it won't fit.  As you can see from this pic that it's very form fitting, which isn't what I was going for, but I'm to far into it to frog and start over.  I'm hoping that it will stretch sideways once I get it done otherwise I may not be able to button it.  I think I might have to put a wide button band on it and that might not even help.  If I stretch it I can get it closed over my chest, but my hips are another matter.  Oh what to do?

Doing some fine tuning

Front view after shorting the crotch

Back view after shorting the crotch and adding a dart at the center back

 I was pretty happy with my pants before, but I has some questions so I contacted Glenda and she offered some advice to help them fit a little better.  First off I was having issues with the crotch.  As I mentioned before something was off and I couldn't figure out what.  After lots of staring in the mirror, and driving my daughter up the wall because I was in her room and wouldn't leave, I realized the crotch was to low.  So back to the drafting table I went and spend most of the afternoon trying to figure out how to fix it with out having to draft a new pattern and cut more fabric.

Contemplating the complexities of crotch seams

In the end I think I did figure it out and changed the pattern.  The tough part was figuring out how to change the muslin without cutting anything, in case it didn't work.

Another change Glenda suggested was to add a dart at the center back seam, because the waistband was gaping.  So I did that and it brought the back waistband in to fit better.  I'm happy, but then again I don't really know what a good fit is, so I'm waiting for Glenda's feedback.  The only other thing I can see that I need to change is tapering the leg a little.  They're a little to wide for my liking.

Update:  Got an email from Glenda.  She said these were fitting much better.  There's some pulling in the high hip area, so I might need to take the seam out just a little.  She agreed about tapering the legs, but said they might hang totally smooth if I don't correct the pulling, but over all I have a fairly good fit.